The Desert Boot
Inspired by South Africans, popularised in North Africa and refined in England
The desert boot’s story begins during the Western Desert campaigns of WWII, where British officers battling in the harsh terrains of Egypt, Libya, and Tunisia sought relief from the heavy, cumbersome military-issue boots.
They found a solution in the bazaars of Cairo: rough suede boots with lightweight crepe soles, perfect for the scorching heat and shifting desert sands. These boots were modelled on South Africa’s veldskoene (“field shoes”), rugged, practical footwear made of reversed leather, favoured by farmers and soldiers alike for their durability and simplicity.
Nathan Clark, great-grandson of Clarks’ founder, encountered these boots while serving in WWII. Tasked by his brother Bancroft, chairman of the family shoe company, to scout for new designs, Nathan noticed these desert-ready boots, worn by British and South African officers. He observed their lightweight build, stitched construction, and ability to withstand punishing conditions. The veldskoene-inspired design stuck with him, and after the war, he refined the style into what we now know as the Clarks Desert Boot.
When Clark introduced the desert boot at the 1949 Chicago Shoe Fair, it gained immediate attention, particularly from Esquire’s fashion editor, who referred to it as the perfect casual shoe.
Desert Boot vs. Chukka Boot
While often mistaken for each other, the desert boot and chukka boot have distinct differences:
Origins: The chukka boot predates the desert boot, originating from British polo fields. Its name comes from the Hindi word chukkar, meaning "circle" or "turn," a reference to a polo period. Desert boots, have some lineage to the Chukka boot, but trace their roots to the South African veldskoen, later adapted by British soldiers during WWII in North Africa.
Soles: The most distinct difference is the sole. Desert boots feature crepe rubber soles, giving them a soft, casual look and feel. Chukka boots usually have leather or rubber soles, making them more polished and suited to formal or semi-formal settings.
Formality: The desert boot is inherently casual, thanks to its crepe sole and rough suede finish. Chukka boots, with their smoother leather options and sturdier construction, can easily transition from casual wear to dressier occasions.
Brands to Know
The OG Brand: Clarks Clarks Originals Desert Boot remains the benchmark for this style. The combination of soft suede uppers and a crepe sole has hardly changed since Nathan Clark first introduced it.
Drake’s
Known for its sophisticated yet relaxed aesthetic, Drake’s offers a version of the desert boot perfect for pairing with tailoring or casual ensembles. My personal favourite is their Clifford Desert Boot in Sand Suede.
Crockett & Jones
This iconic British shoemaker brings unparalleled craftsmanship to its desert boot offerings. With superior materials and elegant silhouettes, Crockett & Jones is ideal for those who appreciate heritage footwear with a luxurious finish.
J.Crew
The MacAlister Boot by J.Crew channels the original desert boot design with a touch of American prep.
Crown Northampton
Handcrafted in England, the Woodford Desert Boot elevates the desert boot’s timeless silhouette with premium materials and impeccable craftsmanship.
From its wartime practicality to its post-war style renaissance, the desert boot seamlessly transitioned from the battlefield to the streets, where it became a favourite of mods, beatniks, and even Daniel Craig’s James Bond. Today, its timeless design continues to pay homage to its roots, embodying simplicity, utility, and enduring style.