The History of Brooks Brothers
An Iconic American Brand
Brooks Brothers, the stalwart of American menswear, has been the epitome of classic style and impeccable craftsmanship since its inception. Known for its timeless elegance and unwavering commitment to quality, this iconic brand has been dressing discerning gentlemen—and, later, ladies—for over two centuries. From Wall Street moguls to Hollywood stars, Brooks Brothers' garments have graced the backs of the world’s most influential figures, solidifying its status as a cornerstone of American fashion.
Becoming Brooks Brothers
Brooks Brothers was founded on April 7, 1818, by Henry Sands Brooks in New York City. The original store, H. & D. H. Brooks & Co., was situated at the corner of Catherine and Cherry Streets. Henry's vision was simple yet revolutionary: to provide high-quality merchandise at a fair profit while maintaining a high standard of customer service. This guiding principle has remained at the core of the brand throughout its long history.
In 1850, after Henry’s passing, his sons inherited the business and rebranded it as Brooks Brothers. The company quickly gained a reputation for its pioneering spirit, being the first in America to introduce ready-to-wear clothing. This innovation made fine clothing more accessible to a broader audience and laid the groundwork for the brand’s future success.
The Golden Fleece
The Golden Fleece, an emblem synonymous with Brooks Brothers, was adopted as the company’s trademark in 1850. This logo, depicting a sheep suspended in a ribbon, has historical roots that trace back to the Order of the Golden Fleece, a prestigious chivalric order established by Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy, in 1430. The symbol was traditionally used by European wool merchants to signify the finest quality wool, making it a fitting representation for Brooks Brothers' dedication to superior craftsmanship and quality.
The Distinguished Order of the Golden Fleece is a Catholic order of chivalry founded in Bruges by Philip the Good to celebrate his marriage to Isabella of Portugal. Today, two branches of the order exist, namely the Spanish and the Austrian Fleece; the current grand masters are King Felipe VI of Spain and Karl von Habsburg, head of the House of Habsburg-Lorraine.
A story for another day, but I had the extraordinary experience of cooking a steak dinner for Karl von Habsburg, the current grand master of the Austrian branch, on a banana farm in Zambia. It was an evening marked by fascinating conversation and a deep appreciation for the historical significance of the Golden Fleece, in addition to the consumption of several bottles of wine.
Iconic Innovations and Items
Brooks Brothers is renowned for several groundbreaking innovations that have left an indelible mark on the fashion industry. Here are a few of the most iconic:
Ready-to-Wear Suits: In 1849, Brooks Brothers revolutionised the market by introducing the first ready-made suits in America, making high-quality tailoring accessible to more people.
The Oxford Cloth Button-Down Shirt: Introduced in the early 1900s by John E. Brooks, this shirt was inspired by polo players’ attire and became an instant classic, beloved for its casual yet polished look.
The Sack Suit: Launched around the turn of the 20th century, the sack suit's generous cut made it a staple of Ivy League style and American suiting.
Seersucker Suits: Introduced in 1870, these lightweight suits became popular for their comfort and breathability, perfect for the warmer months.
Madras Fabric: Brooks Brothers brought this vibrant fabric from India to the U.S. in 1902, adding a splash of colour and pattern to American menswear.
Repp Tie: By reversing the direction of the stripes, Brooks Brothers turned this traditional British accessory into a civilian style icon.
Notable People They Have Outfitted
Brooks Brothers has dressed a veritable who’s who of American presidents, celebrities, and cultural icons. Here are some of the most notable:
Abraham Lincoln: The 16th President of the United States was a loyal customer. He wore a custom-made Brooks Brothers coat to his second inauguration and on the night of his assassination.
John F. Kennedy: JFK favored Brooks Brothers’ “number two” style two-button suits, showcasing his youthful and sophisticated style.
Franklin D. Roosevelt: Wore Brooks Brothers on his way to meet Joseph Stalin and Winston Churchill at the Yalta Conference.
F. Scott Fitzgerald: The celebrated author referenced Brooks Brothers in his works, influencing the style of many college men.
James Madison: Brooks Brothers has outfitted every American president since Madison, with few exceptions.
From its early days of outfitting American presidents to its pivotal role in shaping modern menswear, Brooks Brothers has been a beacon of timeless style and quality. With over 200 years of history, the brand continues to adapt and evolve while staying true to its core values. As it moves forward, Brooks Brothers remains a testament to the enduring appeal of classic American fashion, ensuring that future generations can continue to enjoy its impeccable craftsmanship and iconic designs.